Tuesday, 4 June 2019

Mile 455: l'Anse-Saint-Jean (Saguenay)


l'Anse-Saint-Jean (Saguenay River)
Current Location: Club Natique l'Anse-Saint-Jean
Date: June 3
Mile:  455
Locate (No tracking at location):  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate (No tracking at location):  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

Cape Salmon lightouse peering out of the mist
We left Cap a l'agile at 6:30am this morning to catch favourable tides to enter the Saguenay.  We were greeting to a damp, cool and foggy morning.

We rode the tidal currents nicely until the entrance to the Saguenay.  We second guessed ourselves a little as we thought we were going to get there a little before slack tide, and we slowed down a little, but didn't properly account for the outflow from the river that was still underway.   In the end, it made little difference and we entered with no issue at all.

Baby beluga ... in the deep blue sea ..
Again this morning we were greeted by the local sea life.  More belugas, and this time a baby beluga right at the boat.  Harbour seals too ... looking at us pass by with either surprise or disdain. 





This is a picture looking back at Finnish Line coming into the Saguenay.  In the background are the Prince Shoal lighthouse, a entrance mark, and the largest freighter we've seen so far.  Packed with containers and about 900 feet long.





Today we had stowaways.   I think they were blue warblers (the female has this greenish/yellow belly colouring).  At times there were 4 on board.  In the end one stayed with us until near the end of our trip today.  She spent much of the time napping under our dodger or on the cockpit floor.    At times requiring a gentile pickup and re-location to a safer spot so as to avoid being stepped on.  The bird seem'd not to care less about our presence or activities.  She spent time in the cabin, dodger, under the cockpit floor grate, and anywhere else dead insects accumulated (Kingston midges!)

One freighter followed us into the fjord
The Saguenay is an imposing piece of geography.  Water depths of 900 feet and cliff faces of similar heights.

Water falls of hundreds of feet everywhere.  It's easy to feel dwarfed in such a place. Other than a freighter, and a traditional gaff rigged yawl, and some tourist boats, we had the river to ourselves.

The terrain is so rugged that there are few signs of in-habitation until we reached out destination for the night.

Too many waterfall to count


Both boats had crew on the foredeck to both to soak in the scenery and also to keep a close watch for logs, branches and other debris that gets churned up by the regular tides.











The weather today was cooler again.  This morning was very chilly requiring all sort of layers.  Especially due to the mist and fog.  Even in the afternoon, with some sun, we had to keep warm as the water temperature has dropped from ~14C down to 6C.  This means when the sun hid behind a cloud, air temperatures quickly approach the water temperatures.





The crew of both boats enjoyed the day immensely and were happy to be able to share this all with John and Nanci for their anniversary!

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