Thursday, 26 September 2019

Mile 2588-2728: The Hudson River


Hudson River
Current Location: Portsmouth NH
Date: September 22 to September 26
Mile:  2588-2728
Locate: Ramble On
Locate: Finnish Line 2.0
Google Photo Albums: Haverstraw, Kingston, Catskill, Waterford


Haverstraw (Sep 22)


I think they get to bring 
their own beer too!
We left NYC on one of the hottest days of our trip. At one point it was 33C outside, and just a few degrees less than that inside the boat!   The haze was thick over the NYC skyline.

Given the distance to Haverstraw and the tides/currents, we
Those are people all over 
this it is huge.
calculated that a midday departure would get us to Haverstraw by 5ish and also give us time to do boat chores, fuel and pump-out before we left.  We were a little delayed in this process due an influx of Coast Guard and NYPD boats arriving at the fuel dock to top up.  A 100' motor boat also got to the dock before we did. Regardless, we did manage to add a whopping 13 gallons of fuel, and remove about the same amount of waste!  Pretty small potatoes compared to the boat beside us who would have added thousands in fuel.
General Grant Memorial

Finnish Line followed suit, and after a little while we were on our way.   As was our arrival in the East River, our exit up the Hudson was lumpy and bumpy because of all the ferry, barge and other traffic. It took a few hours before the water began to calm down .

Our passage to our anchorage at Haverstraw was straight forward. There were a few barges we had to keep clear of, but the river is wide and navigation is easy. We passed mile after mile of housing on the north-west side of Manhattan, and similar, but more modern-looking equivalents on the NJ side.

New Tapanzee bridge with the old
bridge piers being removed
We passed the George Washington bridge and then the Tapanzee bridge. They are still removing the vestiges of the old Tapanzee bridge. There are just a few piers left, which are cleared down to almost water level.

Between the two bridges are The Palisades. The impressive cliffs on the west side of the Hudson.

Rail tracks follow the east side of the Hudson shore here, and passenger trains pass here regularly. Tarja surely passed over these tracks on her way into the city. Not a bad view for the train traveler.

Our anchorage for the night is a small, nicely enclosed bay right near the town of Haverstraw.   There is no depth information on my Garmin chart, but Navionics has some detail and the sonar option shows things quite well.   Good thing too, because there are Active Captian reviews that report that the "obstruction extends well further into the harbour than charted". Bob had some track information from "Pokeepsie Bob" that helped ensure an event free entrance and anchoring.

We set anchor with a few other boats in the bay, most of which left by sundown.   The anchorage was peaceful all night until my anchor alarm went off. Luckily this was only due to floating in sort of random directions due to lack of wind.

Not long after, a series of very loud horns at 7am woke everyone up anyway.
Sleepy Hollow Lighthouse
Not sure exactly what it was and it seemed to come from the shore. In the morning, a few anchored barges in the channel had swapped about and perhaps the horns were from a tug signaling as it re-entered the shipping channel.










Anchorage near Kingston (Sep 23)

Firmly aground on the brick pile
Our caution and care about entering/leaving this anchorage turned out to be well advised.   A 45' trawler headed out just before us, but didn't make it all of the way out of the harbour. They found themselves solidly aground on the "Brick pile" that was noted to be further out into the channel than charted. Not that we could be much help, we did offer. The owner thanked us, but said Tow Boat US was on their way. The poor fellow admitted he "cut it too close". And unfortunately, he ran aground just after high tide, leaving him more and more stuck by the minute.

Today we continue up river. We may push for a 40 nm day, but depending on current and weather (some rain and thunder storms predicted), we may stop short.

At this point the river is about 0.5 nm wide, sometimes a little more and sometimes a little less so the navigation is easy. For many stretches, there is good water from edge to edge. At other times, when the river takes a bend, you have to be a little more careful. But it is well marked and straight forward. The traffic is less here, although there is regular barge traffic. We also passed a handful of Canadian boats heading south to enjoy a winter (or more) in warmer climates. 

Bannerman Castle
While mostly tree lined and high shores, at times with cliffs, there were still some interesting structures to watch as you go by:

West Point Academy, the Newburg-Beacon bridge, an enormous gravel plant (no doubt the source of many of the barges we've seen), the Culinary Institute of America  (a huge fancy building), Bannerman Castle (on it's own island), various other large estates and mansions, and lots and lots of trains.   The tracks go down both sides of the river around here, and passenger trains rumble passed quite regularly.

Good old American engineering ...
Concrete piers to hold the mountain up!

We tucked in to an anchorage just south of Kingston NY, and rafted together for another pizza-on-the-BBQ dinner. We had been keeping an eye on the weather this afternoon as thunderstorms were predicted Most of the initial bands of storms dissipated before getting to us, but we expected to get something at night. While we barely received any rain, nor had any electrical activity, we did get some strong winds. At 11:30pm, the winds came up quickly, similar to a line squall.  Once on deck, we quickly realized that our anchor had started dragging. The four of us hustled to separate the two boats. With the cloud cover, it was a dark night. Combined with a knot and a half of current perpendicular to the wind, it took a moment to get our bearings before we set our own anchor. 

Tracks run down both side of the Hudson
Anchor, drag, separate, re-anchor
all equals a bad night's sleep
Once re-anchored, the wind settled down (of course!) and most of the night was relatively calm. That is until the the wind picked up just a little. It was just enough to create some small wavelets. Not normally a concern, but at this point in the wee hours of the morning the current was flowing south, putting our stern into the wind causing the annoying transom slapping which is very hard to sleep through. Liken it to sleeping in a timpani drum!

Culinary Institute of America
Within a hour or so, the current changed and the anchor alarm went off (as it should have, as we were now pulling 180 deg. from where we had been a few minutes before.  Yet with the change in direction came relief from the slapping and a few more hours of sleep were had.

This is where all the gravel
barges come from!!!
It is always interesting to watch boats at anchor, or on a mooring ball, in areas of current. Boats find all sorts of funny ways to sit that are quite surprising. Sometimes you will see boats, bow into the current, stern into the wind, with the anchor line down the side from bow to stern! Water currents, even gentle ones, tend to win out over wind when pushing boats around.




Catskill (Hop-O-Nose) Sep 24

Houses with "lights" all along
the Hudson River
We continued our journey up the Hudson with the destination for today being Hop-O-Nose Marina in the town of Catskill.  This will be where we take our masts down for our transit of the NY Canal system, so that we can pass under the many bridges that do not offer enough clearance for our masts.

The day was pleasant with a mix of sun and cloud. I continued to tackle small de-rigging tasks while the auto-pilot did the hard work! (not so much). The wind was up a bit, then gone and then blasted us from a valley in the hills.

We again passed under some major bridges, passed lovely lighthouses in the river, and regularly saw the Amtrack trains pass by just at the waters edge. We passed a number of old brick smoke stacks along the shore. Some without any other structure, and some with accompanying buildings or other structures. At one point there were over a 130 such factories along the shores of the Hudson River. Now there are none. Only a handful of tell-tale smoke stacks remain to hint at the industry that once filled the shorelines here.

The marina is located down one of the smaller "creeks" we've seen. Finnish Line lead the way as they have been here before. We took our sweet time getting to the marina because we had to wait for two boats to clear the docks at the mast crane. Most of the eight or so Canadian sailboats going south that we passed, likely were here and had their masts put up yesterday, were now working their way south.

Remnants of old
Brick Factories
Awaiting mast lowering
Once at our docks we continued de-rigging as the marina guy indicated that they might want to get underway first thing tomorrow morning. This process involved: removing sails, the boom, all the rigging from the mast to the deck; removing the dodger and bimini (to be re-installed once the mast is down); disconnecting the furling gear; installing the on-deck mast supports (Linda and Bob brought these to the marina in the spring before we left); disconnecting mast wiring; loosening shrouds; and many other things. The staff here take charge of the mast lowering, something I've never had happen, so I'm a little worried even though these guys must do a couple hundred masts every season.

R.J. and his team
Once we had most of our prep under control, we headed to the small restaurant at the marina for a well deserved rib fest.   Large portions of fall-off-the-bone ribs meant we will probably have rib sandwiches tomorrow!

Sep 25

Weird feelings today--some sadness as the mast coming down makes the end of the trip seem real, yet also looking forward to getting back home. It already feels like fall with a morning chill in the air and the leaves are starting to drop from the trees.

The mast crew arrived early. R.J. and his crew of 4 other guys showed up ready for business. Finnish Line was in the "mast slip" so he went first, We'll then swap slips and our mast will come down. R.J. and his crew are on top of the process. While highly questionable in the "workplace safety" department, they were efficient and knew what to do. 

First, one guy goes up on the crane hoist with one foot in a loop of line. When he gets to the first set of spreaders, he proceeds to tie off the lifting line.   Coming back down, he just slides down the mast freehand.   The rest of the crew then secure the lower end of the lifting line to the mast just under the gooseneck.

R.J. operates the crane, and he uses a combination of the electric motor and hand spinning one of the gears (when he needed fine-grained control) to manage things.   He applies a little bit of hoist tension and the rest of the crew releases the turnbuckles and keeps things steady.  Then a final lift to bring the mast off the deck. I check the wiring to be sure it's all free, and then they lower the mast into the supports we installed yesterday. All was done very quickly and with low stress. Quite a relief to have it all done.

Masting crane of unknown age!!
We spent much of the rest of the day securing things, and tidying up the deck, stowing sails, securing the boom, so that we would be able to get around the boat to handle lines without tripping over things.

We treated ourselves to dinner at the New York restaurant.  This place has been in operation for about 100 years. It has interesting decor including an original tile floor. Out front on the sidewalk there is a small observation window down to the basement. You can look down to see the old hand- cranked lift used to raise and lower things into the basement.   It looks sturdy and would have been used to lower ice blocks, used for refrigeration, into the basement.   The current owner found this by accident when knocking down a wall in the basement.

Our plan is to leave early tomorrow morning because we have go 40 nm, which includes a fuel stop and our first lock!


Next Stop .... Erie Canal


Tomorrow we head to Waterford.  We'll stop for the night on the wall just before the first flight of locks (5 locks in about 1.5 nm). The locks open at 7am, and we'll try to get into the first set as soon as they open.

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