Friday, 31 May 2019

Mile 329: Ile-d'Orleans


Ile-d'Orleans
Current Location: Club Nautique de l'Ile Bacchus
Date: May 31
Mile:  329
Locate:  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate:  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

Sharing the lock with local wildlife
A short day today. We chose to get a small head start on our long haul tomorrow. There is only one accessible harbour between here and Tadoussac and it is 70 miles away, and further, because of the tides, it is critical to leave 2 hours before high tide. That leaves us with a departure from Quebec City of 3:30am. Sooooo .... to ease that pain a little, we scooted ahead 10 miles so we could shave 2 hours from our start time and depart at 5:30am.

We are joined now by John's wife Nanci.   She we will be with us until we get to the top of the Saguenay (Chicoutimi).   At that point both John and Nanci will depart, and Debbie will join!

boat on boat action!
Departure today was very civilized. We left the Port of Quebec Marina, locked out of the harbour, and caught a helpful current to zip by a few freighters. We popped our jib and were quickly doing 7.5+ in the 16-22 kt winds. Add a little tidal current, and again we were doing 9 SOG at times. The weather was sunny, but cool, in part due to the wind which can really sap the heat from any exposed skin.

Our destination was Club Nautique de l'Ile Bacchus which in on the south-west end of Ile-d'Orleans. Again, the harbour is basically a basin that sticks out into the St Lawrence and is constructed of a 20' tall rock breakwall. Inside, are floating docks, so dealing how to moor with tide changes is not yet an issue. The harbour is also part of "Plan B", which is an emergency only ferry dock in case the bridge (on the north side) is for some reason impassible.

Club building
We are getting used to being a little in advance of the season as we head north-east. Most of the boats in this club were not yet launched. All their boats are in cradles and the cradles have 4 pairs of tires and a towing tongue, and everyone is launched via ramp. Boats as big as 38-40 are done this way.

Plan "B"
Tower over from door?
Upon arrival, we took a stroll into town in both directions from the marine. We bought some supplies (local island brewed beer, and a few other snacks). Many of the homes were very pretty and many with the traditional Quebec style with tin roofs with double slopes, angled tin roof shingles.

We saw a few cottages/house with unique second floor doors in a tiny tower-like structure.  Hard to image how they get into this space, or what it's used for?
Smallest Church ever?
Another small tower over door

After an afternoon snack, nap and dinner, we are all putting to bed early to be well rested for tomorrow. 

Weather forecast looks like meager winds, so it could be a long day of motoring.












Wednesday, 29 May 2019

Mile 320: Portneuf & Quebec City


Portneuf & Quebec City
Current Location: Port of Quebec Marina
Date: May 27 & 28
Mile:  320
Locate:  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate:  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

Portneuf at dusk
We decided to adjust our schedule slightly so we could spend an extra day in Quebec City.  This meant removing one stop of two on our trek to the old city.

This required a 70-mile day to Portneuf followed by a shorter 30-mile day to Quebec City.   Timed well, both of these legs had us using the current to our advantage.  This probably saved us 2.5 hours on a 70 mile trip.

You can see from the picture that the Portneuf harbour is surrounded by a high stone breakwall.   This is to account for the up to 9' tide that the river now starts to show.   The floating docks are kept in place, not by piles, but by long hinge "arms" attached to 2 of 4 shores.

Entrance to Saguenay

Our daily departure schedule is now dictated by the tidal currents.   We arrived at Quebec with slack tide at the harbour entrance instead of having to negotiate a 6 knot cross current.   Our next few departures will also have to be timed carefully in order to get to Cap-à-l'Aigle and then after that the entrance to the Saguenay River, which can be treacherous at the wrong time in the tide cycle.

We left Portneuf early, again to synchronize with tides.  We had favourable currents taking us briskly along the river.   The day was very cool to start (frost advisories in Portneuf), but quickly the sun warmed things up and we had a pleasant motor.  No chance for sailing here; the shipping channel becomes very confining with tidal flats on both sides at times (and there was little wind as well!)




How?
As Lake Ontario sailors, this whole river/tidal current thing takes some getting used to.

It is a powerful force.  The video here shows a buoy oscillating in it's own eddies.  And ... one wonders how that tree branch got stuck ... at the top of the buoy!

Fishing weirs along the shore?

Spectacular site as you round the final corner

Old City charm

Locking into the Louise Basin harbour
We had radioed the lock master in advance, and as soon as we pulled into the outer basin, the gates began to open.  Barely 15 minutes later we were inside the inner harbour and heading to the gas dock.  That facilities here are the best we've seen, maybe ever seen.

You can see the old stonework and previous generation lock gates in the picture.   They've been left in place to rust/rot away while newer hydraulic mechanisms have taken over.   The bridge over the lock has now been removed.   In fact, the trucks and cranes doing the work were finishing up as we passed, leaving nothing but the large concrete counterweight.

Now, we're off to explore the old city, do some re-provisioning, and relax!

Sunday, 26 May 2019

Mile 217: Club Nautique du Berthier


Montreal to Berthierville
Current Location: Club Nautique du Berthier
Date: May 26
Mile:  217
Locate:  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate:  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

The struggles we had yesterday getting to the Old Port paid off today.   Riding the current downstream immediately upon exiting the harbour had us going over 12 knots.

We did notice one sailboat doing what our cruising guides had suggested, "hug the shore where the freighters are moored" ... but to an extreme that perhaps provided some success (we were not this close, and didn't seem to gain any benefit)


Now that is hugging!

Once we cleared the harbour, we put up sail and headed to Sorel, our intended destination.


We passed a number of freighters, the first of which sounded their horn at us.   We were staying at the outer edges of the shipping channel, but perhaps he didn't like that we had our sail up.

Once we arrived near Sorel we radioed the marina, but with no answer.  A phone call to Saurel Marina confirmed they were not yet open for the season! Fortunately, a member at a nearby sailing club saw us sail by earlier and heard our call on the radio and told us they would be able to take us for the night.   Again, the high water (9' higher than normal) has slowed many marinas from launching boats or docks.

We had to backtrack a bit to get to the Club Nautique de Berthier.  It was their launch day, so they we busy launching boats when we arrived.   The approach to their club was a little freaky.   The channel markers were not in place, the said "cut" was only charted to be a few feet deep and this "channel" ran between two low lying islands that were now 9' underwater, and only had trees a shrubs showing.   You could have easily chosen the wrong two trees to pass through,   It was all a little disconcerting.

The people were very friendly and accommodating, and we owe a shout out to the woman on "Sea Bear" who heard our unanswered radio call.

Discussing for tomorrow, on to Portneuf?


Saturday, 25 May 2019

Mile 174: Montreal


Kanawake to Montreal
Current Location: Montreal Yacht (motor boat) Club
Mile:  174
Locate:  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate:  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

Kanawake Marina is located just a few hundred meters from the entrance on the South Canal (where we would be spending most of our day) so this made our morning departure simple.  The evening was quiet and windless and the morning was calm and not at all cold.

Finnish Line was joined for a time by a pro paddler who was keeping pace with our 6+ knots of speed.


The weather continued to be pleasant for the whole transit of the the canal and the two locks.  We had anticipated cool weather for this time of year, but found ourselves very comfortable and at times trying to stay cool out of the sun.

finally green!
We departed promptly so that we would be ready at the first bridge at 9am.  Again we struggled with what the lock/bridge schedules were suppose to be.
The Gaia enter the lock

The first bridges did not open upon our arrival (though not a single train passed over them).  We tried all appropriate radio channels with no response.  It was only after the Gaia Desganges (freighter) crept up behind us, while we circled at the bridge, did the bridge lights start flashing.  When we got the green light, we scooted through before the freighter.  Apparently we don't count and only ride the coat tails of the big boys.

A new crop of fenders freshly sprouted!

When we got to the the St Catherine lock we ceded priority to the Gaia, which, according to the lock staff, could mean a 40 minute wait up to and hour and a half depending on the pilot and skill on board.  Fortunately, the Gaia locked quickly, and behind us came a Coast Guard cutter (the same one we passed the previous day), and we were able to lead the cutter into the lock immediately after the Gaia was clear and they filled the lock again.
We tied up in the standard fashion with the guidance of the lock staff, but the cutter just hovered in the lock using their thrusters.

As with all the locks, the draining process was calm and barely needed any effort with our boat hooks.  We simply payed out the supplied lines as the water level dropped.
The new bridge taking shape



Temporary bridge supports
We kept our order with the cutter to the final lock in our seaway journey.  Again, they hovered in the lock while we tied on.   The drop in the St Lambert lock was less than 15' so the process was quick.

We passed under both the old and new Champlain bridge.   The new one is a striking piece of engineering.  The scale of the bridge tower is hard to describe, and the engineering components built to hold things up during construction is a wonder in itself.


After our exit from the last lock, our plan was to head to the old Montreal Port, find a slip and have dinner on the town.   While it all worked out in the end, we were a little unprepared for the amount of current involved in heading back up stream after we rounded St. Helen's Island.   The high waters affecting the great lakes and also Montreal area resulted in a significantly elevated current.  Instead of having to stem a 4.5 knot current, we were faced with 6.5 knots and a headwind too!    If you can see my instruments, I'm doing 7 through the water and only 1.5 over ground.   This was the best we got for most of this stretch.  Much of the time we were making less that 0.5 knots of forward progress.   At times we made no progress at all until we wandered sideways to the south side of the channel and picked up a quarter of a knot!


This is a video from John showing at first a view forward where it appears we are making excellent progress until he pans to the shoreline that shows we are barely moving.


When we finally arrive at the harbour and checked into the marine office, the woman who we spoke to had quite a chuckle over the earlier radio conversation where I said we'd be there in 20 minutes!
Sailor's Church

We did end up having a nice evening in the heart of the old city and a excellent dinner at a nearby restaurant.   The light show around the downtown was first class.  The bridge was alight with animated lights, the clock tower with a fascinating projected show dedicated to Leonard Cohen and much more.

Tomorrow, onward to Sorel!

Friday, 24 May 2019

Mile 154: Kanawake QC


Glenn Walter to Kanawake
Current Location: Kanawake Marina
Mile:  154
Locate:  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate:  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

Right now, we're waiting at the Cote Ste Catherine lock waiting for the Gaia Desgagnes.  Determining lock and bridge schedules during the off season has eluded us.   We figured we'd get a jump on the day and be ready at the first bridge at 9am (their pleasure craft opening time).   We ended up circling until the Gaia came down the channel, and we were able to squeak under the bridge ahead of the Gaia.   But now at the lock, they have priority and we wait.

In any case, our past two days coming from Glen Walter to Valleyfield to Kanawake Marine were uneventful.    Cool misty temperatures, sprinkled with warmer weather at times, with periods of full on rain.

Our passage through Lake St. Francis was straight forward.  We decided to cut a more direct route to Valleyfield instead of following the shipping channel.  ~20' deep for most of this.  We passed a Coast Guard cutter with a large collection of stealth black RIBs (they ended up joining us in the St. Catherines lock the next day).  Not sure what they were up to.

Freighter traffic seems pretty light, with a 2-3 ships passing us each day.

There was some activity on a small island to repair a nav aid.  The wood light house structure had a distinct lean to it.

Valleyfield Marina
Valleyfield Marine was a very tidy and clean operation.  The marine office had a fully stocked tuck shop.  

We did a small provisioning run to the local Metro.   On our return to the boat we crossed over the old (decommissioned) canal and into a full featured park that included swimming pool and play areas and lost of nicely manicured grass.

Ice boom
Departure the next morning again left us confused about bridge schedules.   It seems pretty clear from what is written that the bridge should open on demand at this time of year, but a call to the bridge operator told us otherwise.   We had to wait until the 11am scheduled opening.

Ice boom in the distance


Valleyfield bridge

Even when we got to the bridge on time they appeared to need a nudge on the radio to get it to open.


Waiting for the lock (napping!)



We passed through Beauharnois lock after a short rest at the pleasure craft dock. 



Lettie G Howard
That afternoon we arrived at the Kanawake Marina.   When Bob spoke to them, it wasn't clear whether we'd be able to stay on their dock.  Once we got there, it became clear why.  They were is the middle of assembling them!   One guy, sometimes two, worked with a front end loader to move the docks around on shore, bolt them together, and then with the loader, push them in a bit further.   In the end, they installed 100' of dock, but not without someone going for a unintended swim.

In the end, we were able to spend a quiet evening on the dock.

Tomorrow ... off to Montreal ...




Wednesday, 22 May 2019

Mile 100: Crysler Park to Glen Walter


Crysler Park to Glen Walter
Current Location: Anchorage near Glen Walter
Mile:  100
Locate:  1) Ramble On, 2) Ramble On
Locate:  1) Finnish Line 2.0, 2) Finnish Line 2.0

Crysler Park Marina
Beautiful calm morning at Crysler Park Marina.

We had two special deliveries this morning.  George Jackson (North Sails) drove to the marina to do an exchange on sailbags for our new spinnaker snuffer (talk about going out of his way), and Tarja arrived shortly thereafter to deliver a new battery for Bob's laptop.




The winds today were very light and on the nose which meant a day of motoring.

Inspecting their tie-ups
Our traversal of Eisenhower and Snell locks was about as uneventful as could be.   We waited for the Algoma Harvester to pass through going upstream.  Interesting note, the locks contain 3 large yellow contraptions that are an articulated, vacuum securing system.   The suction cups attach to the hulls of the freighters, and they hold the ship in place and are able to control the position hydraulically.

Floating bollard

Then we entered and tied to the "floating bollards".  As the water drained from the locks we barely had to apply any effort to keep the boats aligned and fended off.




Coming out of the Snell lock and for the next mile, the current from the north channel re-joined the shipping channel, and resulted in some turbulent water and a 3 knot speed boost!   The boats wouldn't steer straight, but we were doing 9 knots SOG.



We spent the night anchored in a little bay across from the village of Glen Walter.  Aside from a group of guys with chainsaws vying for a YouTube worthy "fail" video, the evening was uneventful.  No wind all night, and 0.5 knot of current kept us pointing directly upstream.


Tomorrow, we head to Valleyfield and then after that we begin the next set of locks that will take us to Montreal.